This is an update video to let you know how things are going with my new 3d printer, the Creality CR-10. The short version: it’s very easy to print with this system, even for a beginner like myself.
Here are some links to the products shown in the video:
Welcome to a new Voltlog, this will be a repair video, because my ISDT Q6 Plus battery charger has failed. If you remember Voltlog #109 I did a review of this charger and I’ve been using it quite often since I got it, with no issues whatsoever, until a few days ago, I think I was just storage charging some batteries, I did 2 batteries and when it was time for the 3rd battery to go on it would not start anymore, it was saying, “current operation is not supported”.
Get the ISDT Q6 Plus here:
In Voltlog #114 I reviewed the Aneng 8008 and I said it’s probably the best $25 multimeter that you can buy. Today we are taking a look at the Aneng AN8009 which is a newer model from Aneng.
In the end I would say this new AN8009 model is just as good as the AN8008 and they are both great beginner multimeters but they can also be good for the more advanced user who better understands their limitations.
My recommendation is to take a look at the differences between the two and choose based on your needs: ask yourself, do I need temperature measurements? Do I need the extra resistance range? Or do I need the square wave output. Better yet, and this is what I would do, I would get both models to have all of those functions when needed. Also it’s good to have two multimeters because you can measure both voltage and current at the same time.
Here are some links where you can get the Aneng 8009:
Just a short weekend update where I show a package I got from Glenn. Thank you Glenn for sending the awesome tshirt! I also mention the Creality CR10 3D printer I just received from China.
In this video I show you how to fix the EV100 distortion or gray line problem. The problem is caused by an internal ac coupling capacitor which should be of a higher value to decouple any dc voltage offset from the video signal. While some people report a gray line plus some distortions I was seeing a black spot on the left plus some distortions.
I used a 220uF B sized tantalum capacitor and it worked great. But you can use anything above 100uF, electrolytic, ceramic, tantalum, whatever you have around. The voltage rating doesn’t matter as much, anything above 3V is good.
Something like an electrolytic might be easier to solder because of the longer leads that can be bent into the required spot, it’s really up to you what type of capacitor to use in this fix. There is enough room inside to fit any type of capacitor.
Here are some links where you can get the capacitors and extra info: