Voltlog #267 – 60W Ultrasonic Cleaner For PCBs (review)

Welcome to a new Voltlog, today we’re going to take a closer look at an ultrasonic cleaner. This is the 1.3 litre, model number I believe is Y-009, the ultrasonic power is 60W while the heating power is rated for 100W. Usable area I’ve measured to be 125x115x40mm depth which is not a lot but I’ve thought about it and this is pretty much all I need. 99% of the PCBs I design fit within these dimensions so it’s not worth getting a bigger ultrasonic cleaner because it will take up more space and it will use up more cleaning liquid, it would be a waste of resources.

Voltlog #196 – InTheMail

Hello everyone and welcome to a new InTheMail the series that will touch both your passion for electronics and your bank account at the same time.

This is the list of items shown in this mailbag and there will be links to each of these in the video description on youtube:

  • Foam insulating sheet
  • Cork insulating sheet
  • Bed adjustment wheels
  • Small o-ring 1.8mm ID
  • JST-GH connector wire
  • 18ohm 25W Power Resistor
  • 6 cell AA battery socket
  • TS100 Power Cord XT60
  • Braided cable sleeve
  • Small hand drill
  • Mechanic Solder Paste
  • Smartphone Mount

Voltlog #161 – How To Assemble SMD Parts

In this video I’m gonna show you 3 methods to solder SMD parts but before we get to the actual methods I think it’s best to talk about the type of solder to be used. And there are two main types of solder that you can use, that is leaded or lead free solder. If you are doing prototype work it’s best to stick with leaded solder or solder paste because it’s easier to get right, it has a lower melting temperature. If you are doing production work, you plan to sell those boards, than you might be forced to use lead free solder to be compliant with the regulation.

Here are links to the items shown in this video:

Voltlog #35 – SMD Assembly And Reflow

In this video I am going to show you how I assemble PCBs with surface mount devices. First I apply the solder paste with the help of a stainless steel laser cut stencil, next I manually pick and place all the components and the last step is to run the boards through a reflow profile in my DIY reflow oven.