In this video I’m showing you how I made my own bench silicone wire test leads with different end connectors.
Usually when I order stuff from China mainland to Romania it takes about 3-4 weeks to arrive while stuff from Hong Kong takes about 5 weeks to arrive. However every year orders placed starting from about 15th of November up to 31st of December take very long to arrive sometimes even arriving after 8-9 weeks. So right now about a third of my orders are late or missing because there is also a good chance they will never arrive once they go past the 8 weeks mark.
A list with links for all the items shown is in the video description so do check them out.
This is the first video for 2016 and hopefully one of the many this year. I’m giving you an update on what I’ve been up to, that is an auction score where I got myself some nice multimeters (Fluke 87, Fluke 77 and Tektronix TX1) for a good price and the dark load project that I’m working on.
This review/comparison might seem unfair at first because the PCB’s I got from PCBcart do not exactly count as hobby pcb’s due to their features and higher value but some of you might not put cost first on their list we can still get some useful points out of comparing these three.
I was working on designing a pcb for a new project when I was approached by someone at PCBcart who asked if I was willing to review their pcb service. I said yes and they offered to manufacture and send me the pcb’s for my project for free.
The price calculator and ordering system is fully automated on their website, you just fill in the details, you get a price quotation, next you upload your gerber files and place your order. A day later after submitting my files I was contacted by someone who was reviewing my gerber files. They noticed I had routed slots in the milling layer so they asked if they should route those through the middle of the marking line or in another way, thus getting the intended finished slot dimension.
They also noticed I had some square smd test points/pads which were also present in the stencil/paste layer and they asked if I want those in my stencil or not. This is something you might overlook and you might not want those present in your stencil if you plan on using those pads for programming, for example with some pogo pins in a jig. If that’s the case you want your pogo pins to touch directly the pcb pad, you don’t want any solder in between.
After exchanging some emails on those points my order went through manufacturing and I was notified it has been shipped with DHL. About 5 days later I had the boards in my hands and let me tell you these must be the most beautiful PCBs I ever had manufactured.
This is mostly due to the nice gold plating and the matte black soldermask. Definitely perfect for making front panels as I intended for one of these pcbs.
So let’s go through some things and compare these 3 pcbs. First let’s take a look at the quality of the silkscreen. All three have white silkscreen and I tried to get similar sized text for comparison. All images have been captured under my low cost microscope, at the same magnification level on the same flat bed surface.
Unfortunately the pcb from OSH Park doesn’t have any silkscreen, I don’t remember why, it was a prototype I did a while ago. The most likely scenario is that I forgot to export the silkscreen layer in my gerber files.
In this case, the result is quite clear, much better printing from PCBCART, they seem to have a higher resolution print. Most of you might not care to pay extra just for a better silkscreen but then again there might be some people who are designing for example a front panel pcb which needs a nice higher resolution silkscreen.
Next let’s take a look at soldermask alignment. In this category we can compare all three, and let me explain first that, with bigger mask relief (that is the clearance from mask to exposed copper pad) it is easier to handle offsets of the soldermask with regard to the actual copper layer. So I think, manufacturers that can’t maintain a tight tolerance on their mask alignment just increase the relief to make sure the mask never accidentally covers what should be an exposed pad.
On this point, PCBCART again seems to be the best, I don’t even know what kind of process they use, but judging from the photos that I could get with my microscope, it looks like the soldermask extends right up to the copper pad with perfect alignment.
The spacing between the copper pads is also marked on the image and that is something to consider because with very low spacing some manufacturers cannot guarantee soldermask in between those pads. Having no soldermask in between pads might affect your soldering quality, you might get solder bridges more often for example. And in this test, the pcb from Smart Prototyping doesn’t get any soldermask in between those pads.
Next, let’s take a look at via/hole registration. This becomes quite important when working with small drill sizes like 0.3mm and below. You want your pcb to have that hole drilled right in the middle of the pad/via to ensure even copper distribution around it.
Starting from the left, we have PCBCART with a 0.5mm drill via, with excellent registration, clearly the winner judging by the even copper surface all around the drill hole. Next we have OSH PARK with 0.3mm tinted via, very good registration, no problem at all. And on the right we have Smart Prototyping probably 0.4mm drill tinted via, with a small offset.
And just for fun let’s take a look at one more thing, routed slots. In both PCBCART and Smart Prototyping boards I have some routed slots and the idea to compare this came to mind while holding the boards in my hands, I noticed one of them had cleaner slots, with less rough edges. I tried capturing this under the microscope but the results are not that great.
The one from Smart Prototyping seems to have some rough edges on the inside of the routed slots but once again this is just something i noticed while playing with these pcbs, probably not something you would be worried when ordering your next pcbs.
So to conclude my experience with PCBCART, their website is great, you get all the info you need there and the process of ordering is very streamlined. Their customer support was very professional, not wasting time at all and the pcb quality was superb, the pictures speak for themselves.
And one other thing I liked about them, you know those nasty identification numbers that every pcb manufacturer puts on your pcb so they can identify it through their manufacturing process? Well sometimes we are designing front panels, and we don’t want those numbers visible on our pcbs and so far, no manufacturer ever listened to my request, not by email and not by a readme file archived together with the gerbers files. They all went ahead and put those numbers on my pcbs regardless of my request.
Well, pcbcart was the first ever to actually follow my request and not place any additional markings on my pcbs.
And if you’re curious about what the Dark Load is, subscribe to my voltlog youtube channel as more information will be posted there in an upcoming video.
This one is a very short video showing you how to use the drag soldering technique. I am using this method every time I need to solder in line pins, I get good solder joints in half the time it would take me to solder each individual pin. This can add up to a lot of saved time when you’re working on boards with more than 400 solder joints.
Links for products used in this video:
- Set of 10pcs hakko clones soldering iron tips
- High Quality Clone HAKKO FX-951 Soldering Station – EU
In this episode I am showing my latest mail items which include: a bunch of Vishay-Dale shunt resistors which I got for a bargain price, different sizes silicone wires, ultrasonic sensors, a voice recorder, the st-link v2 programmer/debugger, dmx512 decoder board for driving rgb leds, rs485 to ttl converter module, a pair of 433MHz ASK transceivers, some thermal plaster, a metal marking/punch tool and a hiking monocular.
Links for the products shown in this video:
- HFO Electronik Ebay Store with new old stock parts
- Double Sided FR4 Prototyping PCB
- Spring Loaded Marking Punch Tool
- US-015 Ultrasonic Distance Sensor
- HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Sensor
- uSD Card Digital Audio Voice Recorder
- ST-LINK V2 Emulator Programmer For STM8 STM32
- TTL to RS485 TIA-485 Converter Module
- DMX512 Decoder 3 Channel RGB Module
- 433MHz Transmitter and Receiver Module SYN115 SYN480R ASK
- Panda Hiking 10X Monocular Telescope
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 16AWG 1m (Blue)
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 16AWG 1m (Orange)
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 20AWG 1m (Red)
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 20AWG 1m (Black)
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 24AWG 1m (Yellow)
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 24AWG 1m (Blue)
- Turnigy Silicone Wire 24AWG 1m (Red)
In this episode I am testing the various menus on the Graphical LCD Transistor/Component Tester purchased from banggood. This gadget does more than just measure and identify components, it can also measure frequency, it has built-in frequency generator as well as a 10-bit pwm generator with adjustable duty cycle.
Links to the products shown in this video:
- Gabotronics Portable Oscilloscopes
- Graphical LCD Transistor Tester – Original Documentation PDF
- Graphical LCD Transistor Tester + Plastic Enclosure Combo
- Just The Graphical LCD Transistor Tester
- Just The Transistor Tester Plastic Enclosure
In this episode I am assembling the Graphical LCD Transistor/Component Tester purchased from banggood. Once again I give some hints on through hole soldering and in the end the kit works as expected on first go.
Here are some links where you can purchase the kit shown in the video:
In this video I am showing various techniques I use for desoldering and salvaging electronic components like: inductors, tantalum capacitors, connectors, ceramic capacitors, op-amps, comparators, switches, battery connectors, dc jacks, mosfets, fuses and ferrite beads from old motherboards.
I am also taking a look at some laptop optical drivers and lcd pannels to see if there is anything usefull we can save before taking them to the recycling bin.
Here are links to some tools you can use for desoldering jobs: