This is an update video to let you know how things are going with my new 3d printer, the Creality CR-10. The short version: it’s very easy to print with this system, even for a beginner like myself.
Here are some links to the products shown in the video:
Welcome to a new Voltlog, this will be a repair video, because my ISDT Q6 Plus battery charger has failed. If you remember Voltlog #109 I did a review of this charger and I’ve been using it quite often since I got it, with no issues whatsoever, until a few days ago, I think I was just storage charging some batteries, I did 2 batteries and when it was time for the 3rd battery to go on it would not start anymore, it was saying, “current operation is not supported”.
Get the ISDT Q6 Plus here:
In Voltlog #114 I reviewed the Aneng 8008 and I said it’s probably the best $25 multimeter that you can buy. Today we are taking a look at the Aneng AN8009 which is a newer model from Aneng.
In the end I would say this new AN8009 model is just as good as the AN8008 and they are both great beginner multimeters but they can also be good for the more advanced user who better understands their limitations.
My recommendation is to take a look at the differences between the two and choose based on your needs: ask yourself, do I need temperature measurements? Do I need the extra resistance range? Or do I need the square wave output. Better yet, and this is what I would do, I would get both models to have all of those functions when needed. Also it’s good to have two multimeters because you can measure both voltage and current at the same time.
Here are some links where you can get the Aneng 8009:
Just a short weekend update where I show a package I got from Glenn. Thank you Glenn for sending the awesome tshirt! I also mention the Creality CR10 3D printer I just received from China.
In this video I show you how to fix the EV100 distortion or gray line problem. The problem is caused by an internal ac coupling capacitor which should be of a higher value to decouple any dc voltage offset from the video signal. While some people report a gray line plus some distortions I was seeing a black spot on the left plus some distortions.
I used a 220uF B sized tantalum capacitor and it worked great. But you can use anything above 100uF, electrolytic, ceramic, tantalum, whatever you have around. The voltage rating doesn’t matter as much, anything above 3V is good.
Something like an electrolytic might be easier to solder because of the longer leads that can be bent into the required spot, it’s really up to you what type of capacitor to use in this fix. There is enough room inside to fit any type of capacitor.
Here are some links where you can get the capacitors and extra info:
Welcome to a new InTheMail the series that will touch both your passion for electronics and your bank account at the same time. People seem to like this starting line so I’ll keep using it, it’s the truth anyway so why not.
Here is a list with links to all the items shown in this video:
In this video I am building a DIY heated seat cushion which I plan to use in the outdoors while flying my FPV plane.
Links for the items shown in this video:
Welcome to a new InTheMail the series that will touch both your passion for electronics and your bank account at the same time.
Here are links to all the items show in the video:
100pcs butt splice crimp connectors: Banggood, Aliexpress.
ATGM336H GPS module: Aliexpress, Ebay.
ST-Link V2 Programmer for STM8 and STM32: Aliexpress, Banggood, Ebay.
Just a short update to let you know there will be some price cuts on the usual suppliers from China on the 11th. It’s a good chance to get stuff at discounted prices.
Do I recommend getting this module? Yes, the accuracy is good, the resolution is nice 10mV 1mA and you also have the option for adjusting it manually for both voltage and current.
The design is pretty simple, I believe the microcontroller is an STM8S so hacking it and rewriting the firmware should be pretty easy but it already does what it’s supposed to do so I don’t see a point to hacking this module. I think you would be better off designing a panel meter from scratch.
Buy this panel meter from here.
Someone asked on youtube how should a panel like this be wired up, so here is a wiring diagram that you can use. In this wiring diagram our goal is to monitor the voltage and current for charging a battery.
Example 1 shows the panel meter connected before the battery charging module, which means it will measure everything, even the power losses in the battery charging module.
Example 2 shows the panel meter connected after the battery charging module, which means it will only measure current flowing into the battery or whatever load you have on the output.
In both cases voltage sensing is done right at the output but that wire can be moved according to your needs. Also in both cases the panel meter gets power directly from the power supply because at that point the voltage is constant.
The main thing to remember here is that these panel meters are designed for low side current sensing, that means the ground of the logic board of the meter is connected with the input of the shunt resistor.