In this video I was supposed to upgrade my Creality CR-10 3D printer with an auto-leveling sensor but I failed to do that and I will explain why in a few minutes.
The upgrade would involve showing you how to connect the sensor to the motherboard and then flashing the open source marlin firmware to add the auto-leveling features as well as other improvements.
The thing is, nobody tells you that you can’t have the SD card option, the graphical lcd option and the auto bed leveling option active in marlin firmware at the same time when compiling for the stock CR10 board with the atmega1284 which only has 128K of flash memory. The resulting program will simply not fit on that 128K of memory.
Here are links to the stuff mentioned in the video:
In this video we take a close look at what appears to be a plain simple usb data & charging cable. This is ofcourse not your typical cable but instead a full featured tracking spy device which works over the GSM network. The size, shape and purpose of the device is very similar to what the NSA has in their toolbox and calls it COTTONMOUTH.
Welcome to a new Voltlog, this will be a repair video, because my ISDT Q6 Plus battery charger has failed. If you remember Voltlog #109 I did a review of this charger and I’ve been using it quite often since I got it, with no issues whatsoever, until a few days ago, I think I was just storage charging some batteries, I did 2 batteries and when it was time for the 3rd battery to go on it would not start anymore, it was saying, “current operation is not supported”.
In Voltlog #114 I reviewed the Aneng 8008 and I said it’s probably the best $25 multimeter that you can buy. Today we are taking a look at the Aneng AN8009 which is a newer model from Aneng.
In the end I would say this new AN8009 model is just as good as the AN8008 and they are both great beginner multimeters but they can also be good for the more advanced user who better understands their limitations.
My recommendation is to take a look at the differences between the two and choose based on your needs: ask yourself, do I need temperature measurements? Do I need the extra resistance range? Or do I need the square wave output. Better yet, and this is what I would do, I would get both models to have all of those functions when needed. Also it’s good to have two multimeters because you can measure both voltage and current at the same time.
Here are some links where you can get the Aneng 8009:
In this video I show you how to fix the EV100 distortion or gray line problem. The problem is caused by an internal ac coupling capacitor which should be of a higher value to decouple any dc voltage offset from the video signal. While some people report a gray line plus some distortions I was seeing a black spot on the left plus some distortions.
I used a 220uF B sized tantalum capacitor and it worked great. But you can use anything above 100uF, electrolytic, ceramic, tantalum, whatever you have around. The voltage rating doesn’t matter as much, anything above 3V is good.
Something like an electrolytic might be easier to solder because of the longer leads that can be bent into the required spot, it’s really up to you what type of capacitor to use in this fix. There is enough room inside to fit any type of capacitor.
Here are some links where you can get the capacitors and extra info:
Welcome to a new InTheMail the series that will touch both your passion for electronics and your bank account at the same time. People seem to like this starting line so I’ll keep using it, it’s the truth anyway so why not.
Here is a list with links to all the items shown in this video: