Voltlog #256 – Best BST-863 Hot Air Rework Station (Alternative to Quick 861DW)

Inside the box of the BST-863 we have the station, a really nice and heavy stand for the tool piece, a total of 3 nozzles, a grounding strap and a power cord. The first thing I notice is the hose which pretty thick, certainly thicker than what I had on my old Gordak station but seems to be softer material. The way it’s designed with the tool standing vertically in the stand makes the air hose forms this loop which depending on your bench setup might or might not bother you but it’s something to consider. But I like the quality of the stand, it’s heavy and feels very sturdy, you get this accessory here which allows you to remove the nozzles while hot and the station has a sensor to detect when the handle is in the stand.

Adjustment of temperature and air level is made through this touch screen control. I’m a bit anti touch screen control on test gear so I would’ve preferred some switches on the front panel but don’t get me wrong, the touch screen works well on this unit, it has nice big touch keys and after setting up your presets you are likely  not going to need to adjust the temperature you will just be using the presets like leaded, lead free and another one for heatshrink maybe.

Is this cheaper station a good alternative to the Quick 861DW? This video review should provide you with enough info to decide which one to buy.

Here are some high resolution images from the teardown:

Voltlog #255 – Gophert NPS-1601 Review (possibly the best power supply in this price range)

Welcome to a new Voltlog, those who have been with me since the beginning of this channel, may know the first video I ever released, Voltlog #1 was a review of a switch mode bench power supply from Gopher Technology. It was the CPS-3205C and it was a great little unit, it has served me well over the years and I still have it.

At that time I complained about the fact that the unit has the output jacks on the back which is not really convenient for bench use. There were also other issues mentioned while measuring the performance of the power supply,  I will link that video on screen if you want to watch it but the video, audio and editing quality are lower than what you’re seeing today.

Gophert made some improvements to the original design and have now released a newer version of that power supply, it has a new model number it’s NPS-1601 but it’s the same range of 0-32V and 0-5A. There are other models with different ranges but this is what would correspond to the CPS3205 I reviewed years ago.

They have made a bunch of changes on the front panel, the most important one is they moved the output jacks to the front panel so now it’s easier to connect the output of this power supply but they are still not standard spacing so you can’t connect one of these adapters with banana jacks. They have also redesigned the front panel completely, they are still using 7 segment displays but now they also have a wattage display which can be switched on temporarily in place of the amps display, you press the watts button and it will show watts measurement for about 3 seconds before reverting to amps display.

The switch for A/V adjustment is now tactile instead of a sliding switch but the rest has stayed the same. I like this redesigned front panel I just wished they used a lighter color for the text, because for example there are some markings which are barely visible next to the LEDs.

Here is a set of pictures I captured during the teardown:

Voltlog #253 – Aneng V01A Multimeter Review & Teardown

Welcome to a new Voltlog, today it’s a multimeter review because we haven’t done one in a while and here I have the Smart Digital Multimeter which sounds like a generic name, no obvious branding on the box but granted it is featuring the multimeter on the box, it’s a color image which is not often seen on these cheap meters. On the back, the meter is shown in full black holster and we get a model number sticker, AN-V01 so this probably indicates the Aneng brand.

We’ve looked at Aneng multimeters in the past in Voltlog #114 and others and I’m gonna say this again, Aneng does not make multimeters, Aneng is just a company that rebrands existing multimeters made by other companies.

Voltlog #243 – TS80 VS KSGER T12 Soldering Iron Comparison

Welcome to a new Voltlog, yet another soldering iron comparison video and today it’s between the TS80 and the KSGER T12 station. Everyone knows the TS80, is quite a popular portable soldering iron, works with USB type C input, it needs a quick charge compatible adapter to reach full power and it’s quite a capable soldering iron. The drawback is the cost of the tips, it uses this proprietary type of tip and the cost is about $20 a piece.

On the other hand we have the KSGER soldering station which I reviewed in Voltlog #232. This station has a built in power supply and uses the well known T12 tips which are widely available on aliexpress, for example you can get KSGER T12 branded tips for about $3 a piece. I think that’s important, because I have 2-3 different tip shapes that I use regularly and maybe another 2 or 3 that I use occasionally for odd jobs. You can’t just rely on a single tip shape and purchasing the same number of tips for the TS80, is not going to be cheap.

Voltlog #234 – The Problems I Found With The KSGER T12 Soldering Station

In a previous Voltlog I reviewed this KSGER T12 soldering station, it was the first station I got my hands on from this manufacturer, it’s version 2.1S and I was pleasantly surprised by the features it has. If you haven’t seen that video I will link it on screen right now. Since then I’ve been using it as my main soldering station and I’ve been pretty happy with how it works but some of my viewers who have been using these for longer have pointed out a few things I missed in the video so this will be a quick update video to show the things I’ve missed previously.

Voltlog #232 – My New Prefered T12 Soldering Station KSGER V2.1S

Out of the three T12 stations that I have, this is now my favorite and will be the one I use daily. I’m not sure if the performance is higher or similar to the other I have, I’ll probably do a separate video to compare them but it’s just the user interface, the menu options, the nice handle that make me wanna use this instead of the others. Yes it has a few disadvantages regarding this handle, it does get warm and it doesn’t really fit that well with a regular stand but I can go past those disadvantages for how nice this station is. If you’re looking for a T12 station this is definitely the one to get.

I also did a second video where I showed the problems I found with this soldering station and if they can be fixed by the user or not.

 

Voltlog #211 – Joulescope DC Energy Analyzer Review & Teardown

Welcome to a new voltlog, today I’m excited because we’re going to take a look at an awesome piece of instrumentation. I’ve received a pre-production demo unit of the Joulescope DC Energy Analyzer.

The joulescope is a low cost precision dc energy analyser which is currently on kickstarter so check the links in the description of the video for the kickstarter campaign because it has a massive discount from the retail price. The joulescope has circuitry for measuring voltage and current, from which it can calculate power and then it can integrate power over time to calculate energy. The current measurement range is from 10A al the way down to 1nA, that’s a huge dynamic range which makes it very useful if you plan to measure the energy consumption of a device that has mixed behavior for example an esp32 that will wake up, do some activity and then go back to deep sleep.

The joulescope works with a software companion that has a multimeter view and an oscilloscope view which I find very useful because it will allow you to time correlate measurements of voltage and current. That can be extremely useful when determining the energy usage of your device.

Voltlog #210 – 946C Hot Plate Review & Teardown

Welcome to a new Voltlog, today we’re gonna do a review and teardown of this hot plate which was supplied for free by banggood.com. So you would use something like this to preheat a pcb, to prepare it for desoldering an IC or even for reflow soldering a board. As usual there will be links placed in the description below which I encourage you to check out. There is a 100x100mm version at 400W and a 200x200mm version which I have here at 800W.

If you haven’t worked with a multi layer pcb you might ask yourself why do I need to pre-heat the board. Well modern devices uses a high number of internal pcb layers so desoldering something from those might be harder if you only heat the board from the top with hot air, it might take some time until the IC reaches desoldering temperature because the heat is sucked away by the internal copper layers.

This could be bad for the board and the IC because you will need to increase the temperature of your hot air station above the normal working temperature to compensate for that and in the process you might damage the board or the IC. Such a tool allows you to bring the board to a higher temperature without creating any hot spots, and then you can just heat with hot air from the top the are where you need to work.

Voltlog #206 – PCBWay Service Review

In this article I’m gonna review a set of PCBs I ordered from PCBway.com which I got for free for the purpose of this review. I have done several other PCB reviews in the past so if you would like to check those out, here are some links. (link, link)

In the article I’m only going to discuss the printed circuit boards themselves and the quality aspects of the boards. I will also be doing a short video on the subject where I will be discussing the ordering process and some aspects of their website.

So here is a picture with the boards I ordered, this is a simple breakout board I designed to interface to an epaper display.

It has all the bypass capacitors and additional circuitry needed to generate some voltages for the display. The SPI interface is broken out to header pins for easy connection to a controller board. The interface with the display is handled through a 24 pin, 0.5mm pitch flat flex connector.

How good is the soldermask?

So let’s go through some things that make-up a printed circuit board and analyze their quality. First let’s look at the soldermask, which in our case is green. This acts like a shield for the copper tracks, prevents oxidation and also helps during soldering if it’s present between adjacent pads.

The soldermask has opening for each connection pad and ideally you want the soldermask perfectly aligned so it doesn’t cover any area that you want clear. In the picture above (please excuse the low quality) we can see the soldermask aligns almost perfectly with the pad, no problems whatsoever.

How good is the silkscreen?

Next let’s talk about the silkscreen, which represents the legend of the PCB. In this case the silkscreen is white, which gives a good contrast over the green background created by the soldermask. The silkscreen contains valuable information like part numbers or values. In high density designs you want to be able to print small silkscreen and still be readable.

In the case of these boards I added different sized text on the back, and as you can see the text is clearly readable down to 0.5 text size in EagleCAD. I must say the quality of the silkscreen printing for these PCBs is excellent.

How are the drill holes aligned?

Another important aspect of a pcb are the drill holes and their alignment with corresponding pads. And here we need to take a look at the annular ring which is the circular area of a pad surrounding the drill hole. If you have a small via of just 0.2mm, the annular ring is very thin so it becomes very important for the drill to be exactly centered on the pad to avoid breaking the annular ring.

In the case of this design I specifically added a few rows of vias, starting from the left at 0.2mm, 0.3mm in the middle row and 0.4mm on the right row. This is so we can easily look at the quality and alignment of the drill holes.

In the close-up taken with my low quality microscope we can see the drill holes are well aligned with the center of the pad, on the 0.2mm vias and the 0.3mm ones, the holes are dead center with a perfect annular ring. We observer a slight deviation on the 0.4mm vias, which caused the annular ring to shrink on the left side of the pad but nothing to worry about, there is still plenty of copper in there.

There are also a few less important things that we need to take a look at because I might consider them less important but they might be important to you. For example, identification labels. This is something all prototype pcb houses will add to your pcb. This is a code, they will add in the silkscreen and print on your pcb so they can later identify your pcb among others placed on a larger pcb panel. Sometimes they will add this code under a large part, so it will be invisible in the finished assembled board, sometimes, they just place it in plane sight.

In the image above you can see how PCBway added that text under the connector, so once I solder that flat flex connector, the identification text is not visible any more.

Electrical test?

And the last thing I would like to mention is the electrical test of the board. That is normally done with a flying test lead machine, which literally has flying test probes, moving really fast, checking each pad and track for connection or shorts. That action will leave small scratch marks on each pad and that is usually a good indication that the test has been performed. However in the case of prototyping services, the electrical test is usually nor performed because it takes time, it’s expensive and the pcb’s are cheap.

Normally these prototyping services just have an AOI step in their production flow. AOI stands for automated optical inspection and with the help of high resolution cameras it can identify most problems by comparing the resulted pcb with the original design file. I think these pcb’s we’re not subjected to electrical test but just AOI instead.

And to conclude my review of their pcb service I can say the PCBs turned out great, they are of good quality, nothing bad to talk about here. Regarding their website and ordering process, I think they can do a few things to improve the customer experience.

I also did a youtube video, talking about these PCBs, if you would like to watch that, I’ll include it below.

Voltlog #198 – SUNKKO 737G Battery Spot Welding Machine Review & Teardown

Welcome to a new Voltlog, today a review video. So you know I’ve been talking about building my own spot welding machine in previous videos, that project is still active but progress is slow. In the meantime I’ve been contacted by banggood they wanted to offer something for review and I thought I’d try out a chinese spot welding machine, this way I could have something to compare with.

So I picked this model from their inventory the SUNKKO 737G, I got the 220V version for EU, if you live in a 110V country, you need to choose the appropriate model. If you’re interested checkout the links in the description below the video.

So why do we need a spot welding machine? Because it provide a safe & reliable way of connecting battery cells. Sure you could take the risk and try to solder your battery cells, I have done that in the past but I would rather avoid doing it if I can because it’s risky, the temperature of the cell will rise too much while heating it up with the soldering iron. This machine does it in the blink of an eye so the cell doesn’t get hot at all.